Continue reading »]]>

Pagoda at Nikko

The leg from Mt. Shirane to Nakanojo (52 km/32 miles) is almost a constant downhill track which is of course a lot of fun. I’m pausing in Utsonomiya for three days as I’d like to see the tomb in Nikko which is about 40 km away from my host in Utsunomiya. There is only one Couchsurfing host in Nikko and as the mausoleum of Nikko is an UNESCO World heritage he receives up to 20 requests a day during the main season. Even though it’s autumn/fall and I sent my request more than a month in advance I wasn’t lucky and he was already booked out. My host says” this is perfect, as I haven’t had any ideas what to do with you. We can go there with my car!” I don’t have anything against it as Nikko is not directly on my route and I’d have lost at least two days. On top of it it saves me a night in a hostel.

On the leg from Koriyama to Fukushima a quite young Japanese cyclist overtakes me on his quite antique seeming bicycle. Nothing too special but an elephantine rucksack on his back makes me perplexed. After he read the sign on my trailer he asks me doubtfully if I was really on my way from Fukuoka to Sapporo with my bicycle. I answer – as I always do – with a simple: „yes“. „With that?“ he asks pointing to my trailer. Once again I’m answering with a simple: „yes“. And the usual Sugooooi (wow / unbelievable / awesome) is his answer. I ask where he’s going. He answers: „Aomori“ (in the north of Japans main island Honshu over 400 km away from here). Now I’m the one who’s looking incredulously at him: “with that?“, pointing on his bicycle. My question is answered with a simple: „yes“. I saved a lot of money when I bought my bicycle but there are obviously people who have even less demands than me.

respect for this guy with this bicycle!

[Show as slideshow]

Special thanks to: Mattew Hahn, U.S.A. (text revision); Katsutoshi Horie, Japan; Chris DeHaan, Canada; Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich

Continue reading »]]>

historic hill grave

Anapji royal pond garden

When approaching Gyeongju hundreds of little bizarre round hills are to be found everywhere. Even within the city’s parks. Later on I shall find out that these are ancient tombs. Gyeongju – capital of the ancient kingdom of Silla (57 BC – 935 AD) -with its surrounding UNESCO world heritage temples, sights and the very conspicuous tombs-hills is a tourism magnet today attracting eight to nine million tourists every year. My host Craig used to live in Chungju where he hardly received any hospitality requests. Since he moved he receives significantly more requests. Craig works at the university as an English teacher. He guided me and another guest from Denmark to the Anapji royal pond garden which was part of the palace complex of ancient Silla. There are replicas of ancient buildings. Within these buildings you’ll find models of the historic Kingdom temples.

Anapji royal pond garden

Dharma Bell at the national museum

People interested in South Korea’s history – especially in the history of the Silla kingdom – shouldn’t miss the national history museum of Gyeongju. The entrance is free. It’s mainly historic jars, adornments or crowns of former kings presented there. The audio guide tour can be recommended however it is read by a screen reader program which turns it in to a very monotone and sometimes very tiring affair.

newly discovered zodiacs at the Love Castle

Gyeongju has a museum about sex. The sex museum Love Castle. http://www.lovecastle.net/index.html I didn’t expect something like this here. So I’m giving it a try. Even though I got a coupon from the tourist information for a 1.000 Won discount with an entrance fee of 11.000 Won the price is still pretty steep. So then it’s got to be good was my thought.

Penis pot

The first department deals with history. Historic sex paintings, toys and jars or little clay figures showing genitals or copulating people are exhibited. But only two boards explain something about the figures and the paintings in English. I can’t find any explanation if these jars are original. But they seem like effigies to me which is my first disappointment. If the national museum is for free, this museum here usually charges 12.000 Won per adult they should have at least one real historic artefact. Well perhaps they do but I simply couldn’t read it. The historic sex toys – if they are historic at all – don’t have any English explanations as well. Also those look like cheaply redesigned facsimiles to me. I would have hoped to find more facts about these devices. From which time do they originate? Did only kings and queens have the privilege to afford or use such devices or also regular people? Were those toys accepted in the populace? Could a blunder publicly offer such goods?

glancing at glanses

Standing gardens of Gyeongju

tasty Lolipop, horny cow, butterflies in ones pants

I’m leaving the first building and am being guided to a beautifully designed garden. I quickly realize for what most of the money collected at the cash desk is being spent for. I see a wonderfully designed patio. A neatly modelled fountain floats through it, the pavement consists of nicely arranged natural stones and tiles and there are flowers everywhere. Here you’ll find giant plastic crafts. Such as oversized and coloured penises, copulating couples twice as tall as regular people or for example a wooden turtle with a penis head. Some of those structures made me smile but that’s about it. Even though this part of the museum seems to be dedicated to modern sex art I missed some information either about the author of the crafts – were they all designed by the same artist? Is she or he famous or were those crafts just an order by the museum? Is the artist Korean? – or more info on the sex position – what is especially exciting about the shown position? What is the advantage for her or for him…? What is it called? A comparison between English and Korean names of the position would also have been interesting. Not least a board with sex tips or advice how to have very exciting sex.

close to doggy style

Totally ignored by the museum: The Asian porn, porn comic and porn animation movie industry which is a big thing in Japan and South Korea and originates from Japan and here after all. At least I can’t think of any American animation hard core porn. Which are the biggest artists or production companies here? Also I can’t find anything about geisha girls. Which is also special for Asia and who were not prostitutes!

I love colored people!

Well, at least the museum dedicates one department to animal sex. It gives it some variety.

Unbeleavabel that 20th Century Fox licensed this ;)

Another topic I was hoping to find is: homosexuality in Asia. Still most homosexual people face a lot of discrimination here. Later on on my trip one gay host tells me that he would probably instantly get dismissed if he told his principal he is gay. Also he lets me know a story of a South Korean actor who was very famous until he came out. After that he wasn’t hired by any production company any more. Still he owns some restaurants in Itaewon – the foreigner district of Seoul – and people come to his restaurant.

Unless it’s about sex education such a museum is not for children of course. As this one here does only show a few penetrations I’d say it is okay to bring your children here. And this is the point. I spot one Family who took their little offspring – perhaps six years young – to the museum. I think they are a cool couple. So I am looking for a department about sexual education. But even for those visitors or for parents having problems teaching sexual education to their kids the museum does not seem to be a big help.

But Disney's licensing department tops it all! :)

Sure, sex is mainly about fun. But it also has its dark sides. Prostitution and AIDS would be two. Also these topics are completely faded out here. Are there any historic records about prostitution? Something about the first cases of AIDS in Asia? Which takes me to the next subject: contraception. Also nothing about this topic.

Lipstick

I am being guided to a sex shop. As I originate from the country which opened up the world’s first sex shop I don’t expect too much but would also say it’s okay if I don’t find a hyper speed dildo with vibrations close to light speed promising the best orgasm in the universe for my next female host here. (Eventually I don’t like to come without a fitting present that leaves a good impression) Expectably the sales mix has been beaten by every German Beathe Use sex shop but at least it is more a place where couples will find inspirations. But also here some info about the acceptance of sex toys in Asia would have been interesting. When were the first sex toys imported/produced? Were they accepted right from the beginning?…

Car Sex

The last department deals with car sex. But it just consists of a car – which you can’t enter :) and a board showing different positions (once again only with Korean explanations). Also no info on how car sex changed sexual life from the 1920′s on. Some say that even car sex contributed to the naming “the wild 20′s” It would have been fun to have had different types of cars seats so that couples could have gotten in position (of course with their clothes on) just for fun or for a funny photo session.

parking positions

In my opinion they could have dedicated one department to Sigmund Freud and his thesis.

Sex in (the) green

And how is it with the South Koreans or Asian sex today? How often do they have sex? How satisfying is it for her and for him… ? How long is Asian intercourse on average? Why is the intimate shaving not usual here? Why is it not common in Japan to take the pill?

So I leave the museum with more questions than when I entered it. The sex museum might be an innovation. Perhaps even revolutionary for South Korea. Western tourists rather stay away from it. Long story short: Neither sex Artists, people interested in history about sex, nor couples looking for inspiration for their next sexual adventure get their money worth here. I rather recommend a visit to the nearby Gyeongju World Amusement Park. People looking for excitement will leave this theme park with much more satisfaction!

[Show as slideshow]

Special thanks to: Craig Cocking (New Zealand; host and text revision), Mark Reynolds (UK, host Ulsan), Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Christoph Flossmann, Lilith Pendzich;

Continue reading »]]> Here comes the San…

Fuji San

It’s time for a countryside trip again! This time to Japan’s highest mountain, Fuji San. And I already found the perfect partner for this hike. Andreas, my school friend whom I introduced last week. He has already climbed the 3776 m high Fuji San three times from the very bottom to the very top! The main starting point for hikers however starts from station house five at 2300 m altitude. This is the final destination for buses to Fuji San. However, Andreas and I have decided for the long route. We are starting at 12:00 p.m., and want to reach the summit around one or two a.m. Pleasant, until Station house 5 most of the route leads through a forest so that we always walk in shade protected from the burning sun and don’t need sun screan at all.

The following equipment should be packed into your backpack for climbing Fuji San: The gear can vary strongly depending on the season. Weather-wise July and August are best suited for a less challenging climb. Furthermore it should be mentioned that the so called station houses there are closed in the winter season thus you can’t by any supplies then. However it’s summer. And for this time following items shouldn’t be missing:

Torch/Flashlight (even if you plan climb it during the day you never know what happens and for how long you will stay at the end )

Batteries

a little towel to wipe off one’s sweat.

Four litres of water. Sounds like a lot but it will not last to the summit if you start from Fujis foot

Advisable but not essential: walking sticks.

Depending on the climbing time: sun screan and sunglasses. – Even on cloudy days.

Lifesaving: rain-protection and good weatherproof clothing!
Depending on the starting time of your tour a good torch/flashlight is recommended. The last passage is steep. So walking sticks can be very helpful some of the time. From station house seven on the route gets very steep and it is recommended to have both hands available or to make good use of the walking sticks. Thus a headlamp is recommended. One does not essentially need good walking shoes. Many people climb Fuji with trainers/sneakers and come back alive and without blisters on their feet. I got myself polyester trousers/pants however Andreas decided for regular jeans. But weatherproof clothing should never be missing. Even if Fuji San has its very own and quite reliable weather forecast one should be prepared for a change in the weather. It is necessary to have a good raincoat. Also gloves are very useful. Temperatures of minus -5°C (23°F) can be reached during the summer months. So the jacket should have a good lining. As one can easily break sweat on the ascent fleece shirts are to be preferred over cotton ones. As the cotton quickly gets soaked with the sweat and one quickly risks an under cooling depending on the wind and altitude. Those climbing Fuji during the day and who do not have the best melatonin balance should carry sun screan with her or him. Those who turn the ascent into a two day adventure should also think about toilet paper. And of course a lot to drink…

At our first break after approximately one hour we meet a retired Japanese couple who offer us self-harvested peaches. It is hard to believe but I already drank two litres of my four litre drinking stock.

On to station house no. one. On the way to it, not a single soul. Shortly before the second station house there is a small parking lot. On our walking route the last access point for cars until station house no. five. Here we meet two Polish people. Well, even Germany’s neighbours appreciate high mountains.

It is already 4 p.m. and we have just reached station house no. 3 at 1700 metres (5577 feet). By the way for some time now Japan has been trying to get Fuji San into the Unesco world heritage. So far the applications have been rejected due to a lot of garbage lingering on and around Fuji San and due to the fact that the mountain does not have enough plants worth protecting. Andreas and me are finding relatively little bottles or plastic bags – there are some walking routes in Germany which are far dirtier than those here, however the so called station houses starting at no. one until no. five are anything else but eye candy to me. They are rotting hut ruins, collapsed, shrunken and abandoned. Even if I am not a Unesco juror I am able to relate to their reasons for their rejections very well. When a street to station no five was built all lower located station houses became less important. Since then a lot of hikers don’t start their route from the very foot and so it became less lucrative for the landlords to keep up the huts. The supplies were carried to the huts after all. Which is still valid for all station houses above no. five by the way.

We are lucky with the weather. Not a single rain cloud. But around 7 p.m. the dusk slowly arises and Andreas and I are fishing out our torches/flash lights. Mine is way brighter but despite four A batteries it’s dead after less than an hour. The starry sky and even the shining moon do not really help us here in the forest. We are both hoping that Andrea’s batteries will last a little longer at least. We turn the flash light on and off several times, testing to see how it would be if the second torch/flashlight died. Even in somewhat brighter clearings with moonlight we are stumbling immediately on the stony ground. Not to mention the possible danger of taking the “wrong fork”.

Tired but not completely exhausted we are reaching station house no. five. My stomach has been aching for a while now. The first one which is not a collapsed ruin. My drinks did actually last until here. Still I’m running low. I’m getting myself a two litre bottle for 1.000 yen.

At 9:30 we are moving on. The route is getting steep. Very steep. A lot of tourists are accompanying us now who came via bus to station five and started their tour from there. Many tourists have an American accent however for the most part are Japanese people. It’s holiday season after all. That means that one should book the trains or buses to Fuji San at least two weeks in advance.

About 10:00 p.m. we are reaching station no. 6. The thin air is giving us a hard fight. My stomach pains are getting stronger. Even Andreas is complaining about slight stomach aches. As he climbed Fuji San already three times without having had any stomach problems we can’t see any reason for them. Even though I slept for five hours last night so I want to preclude exhaustion as a reason, hehe. So what is it which is giving both of us this hard fight? Hm there was this nice couple with the peaches… But they were really tasty. Could they have upset our stomachs? However it is the only thing we both ate together today.

About 11:00 p.m. we are reaching station house no. 7 at almost 3.000 m as my stomach aches are becoming unbearable. It is a cloudless night sky. Up I can see what I haven’t seen since my arrival in Japan: a marvellous swath of the heavens with thousands of stars and even the milky way! We’re even spotting three shooting stars! But unfortunately I can’t really enjoy it because in addition to my aching stomach the thin air affects my circulation so strongly that my face is turning ashen. Even a one hour long break does not improve my constitution. We are lucky with the weather. A slight breeze prevails. But despite two sweat shirts and a jacket we both begin to shiver. What would one expect if you don’t move any more. My stomach aches are getting even worse! I’m completely prostrated and am telling Andreas: “I’m sorry I have to give up!”

I’m astonished by Andreas’ reaction. He is not disappointed at all! Well okay, he has been to the summit several times already.

So we are setting forth on our way back. After two hours we are reaching station 5. But it’s not even three a.m. The first buses back to Tokyo are leaving at 10:00 a.m Until dawn we persevere on two hard wooden benches. As compensation for this we are being rewarded with a beautiful sunrise. It is almost completely fogless. Which is a rare event on and around Fuji San. Often thick morning fog gathers and remains, especially in the lowlands, relatively long.

Fuji San rise

Fuji San rise part II

As the first shops are opening their doors at around 6 a. m. (officially most shops open here at 8 or 10 a.m.) there is only one thing which will help my aching stomach: Whiskey. And even this you can get here. So my dear alcoholics. You won’t run out of booze, even here at 2300 m (7545 feet) up Fuji San. Very calming isn’t it?

Diverse hiking routes: http://www.city.fujiyoshida.yamanashi.jp/div/english/html/climb.html

[Show as slideshow]

Special thanks to: Hubertus Neidhart from Webspace Provider Network for excellent web page hosting services; Lilith Pendzich, Germany; Brandon Lamb, U.S.A.;